Ensenada 20 Boat Review

Posted By: Rod Brandon
Date: 8/27/99 11:44a.m.

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THE BOAT The Ensenada 20 was designed by Lyle Hess; of Viajera 16, Balboa 20 and 26, Bristol Channel Cutter 28, and the Nor’Sea 27 fame. Lyle’s accomplishments also include various custom designs, one being the Renegade 28,whose lines were followed to build “Seraffyn”,the boat owned by Lin and Larry Pardey, lifetime cruisers and circumnavigators. The Ensenada 20 uses the same hull as the Balboa 20 but with a rather unusual flush deck that increases cabin space below and foredeck space at the bow. We’ve had owners of 30 footers envious of our ability to stretch out and suntan on the deck of our “Serendipity”. The Ensenada 20 (E20) was manufactured from 1973 to 1977 (est.) and was also built under the RK-20 name by Coastal Recreation. There were many interior, rig, keel trunk, rudder, and interior design changes over the years, making almost every E20 on the water today a “One-Of-A-Kind”. However, the RK-20 design was pretty much locked for the benefit of one-design racing clubs. “Serendipity”, a 1977 E20 model, came equipped with direct to mast upper shrouds (no spreaders), fractional (vs masthead) rig, a swing keel, kick-up rudder, and bow pulpit, main with single reef points and a 100% working jib. She was purchased with a 3.9 HP longshaft Volvo Penta outboard, that though still in brand new condition, was recently replaced. AN OWNERS OPINION... Now into our fourth season aboard “Serendipity”, after about 3000 miles, over twenty repairs and modifications, attending six boat shows, and looking over a variety of boats from stem to stern, I’ve developed a definite opinion. The Ensenada 20 is a great sailboat for day sailing and extended cruising for two (preferably shorter people) in protected and larger waters. THINGS I LIKE: Cabin space: Enormous for a 20 footer. We've set ours up as a compact cruiser and my wife and I have enjoyed 2 week excursions with our 14 year old son on board. Pop top is great but catches jib sheets when up while under way (also hurts visibility). We leave it up (underway) only when we're in big water, on long tacks, and where there's little traffic. Swing keel: Significant (4') draft for stability and minimum leeway while beating, yet minimal drag (retracts for 21" draft) when running, convenient for gunkholing shallows, yet since significant keel is still exposed below the hull when fully retracted, it provides good stability in light winds and reduces swing when at anchor (always retract at anchor or you'll think you're a bronc buster). Swing keel winch available from cockpit (many boats you have to go into the cabin). Kickup Rudder: If you like gunkholing it's a blessing. Some were manufactured with fixed rudders (I wouldn't have one). The only trick is to tension the pivot bolt to just prevent it from kicking up from water drag at hull speed. Main Sheet System: Transom (basically) mounted main sheet system doesn't present the companion way hazard as do most boats. The starboard mounted cam cleat is an inconvenience on a starboard tack. If there's a chance I'll have to spill the main, I run the free sheet end around the stern rail (modification) on the port side. Heavy duty mast: (heavier construction than many 26 footers). This eliminates the need for spreaders (some confuse with light construction 'till they heft the mast), and makes mast stepping much easier (lack of spreaders, not weight). The heavy tabernacle and shroud placement eliminates side swing during mast raising. Large foredeck: There are few boats you can stretch full out on regardless of size (up to 40 feet). The E20 has an unbeatable foredeck. Heavy sea handling: Beating at 10 degrees heal or better provides a smooth ride in just about anything. The sloping foredeck and high cockpit coamings provide a dry cockpit (we've ploughed through 6 foot curling waves and never had water more than half way up the deck). Also the slight stern overhang responds well to following seas (very limited roll on a broad reach or running) while not limiting LWL excessively. Of course, no boat is perfect, so it’s also only fair to describe... THINGS I DON'T LIKE: Jib Sheet Winches: Too small! They should be replaced with ones that take a handle to assist sheet adjustment under load, and make mast raising a single person job. Swing Keel Lock Down: While I believe this to be an essential requirement of any swing keel boat (to prevent retraction in the event of a hurricane force knock down), under light winds you risk trunk damage in the event of a grounding (experience talking). If you don't lock down, waves forced into the trunk come through the lockdown stud hole, and wet the floor. After a season of wet floors and repairing a damaged trunk, I attached a stainless steel plate and reamed out the trunk stud hole to 3/4". When the keel is retracted, we put a 3/4" expanding scupper plug in the hole. When underway (and the lock down stud is through the hole) we push on a separate scupper plug that has been drilled out to friction fit on the stud and plug the hole. This keeps water from coming through the hole, but allows the keel to kick up on grounding. If there's no chance of a grounding we put the lock down wing nut on. (The hope is the scupper plug would absorb a little shock in the event of a grounding, but in any event the keel can't retract if the boat is capsized turtled (though I pray I’m never caught in conditions that could cause this). Main Roller Reefing: Some roller reefing systems are good. This one isn't. It's very cumbersome to pull back the boom against the spring tension while rolling the boom, and keeping the topping lift butterfly from catching on the boom end. Forget about trying to maintain sail shape! We tried it once and then set up a simply jiffy reef line. Gas Tank Provision: There is absolutely no provision for a portable tank (the cockpit locker is open to the cabin). We use a 3 gallon tank on the cockpit floor at the transom.Though dangerous, on longer cruises we carry a jerry can in the locker. Topping Lift: The stock topping lift (nicopressed pigtail off the back stay) is a pain and dangerous. It's a pain because you have to reconnect it ever time you lower or reef the main. It's dangerous because when reefed you can't spill the main. To correct this I attached a 3/16" SS clip at the masthead (there's enough room beside the backstay terminal) and ran 5/16" braided nylon to a bronze clip (similar to original) for boom end butterfly connection. We leave it connected all the time, so it's just slack when the main is up full (it won't touch the roach so there's no fear of chafe). We can release the main halyard, or let the sheets fly at anytime if we're in trouble (fortunately we haven't had to and probably never will, but I like the opportunity being available).