Inboard Outboard Motor

Posted By: Dano Superior Pleasure CM30 Rainy Lake ON
Date: 2/4/08 1:23p.m.

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In Response To: CM East Coast/ / Project (Bob R)

Bob Pics and work done looks great! Last summer I pulled my 15hp Evinrude out and finally found a 5" extension for the shaft (didn't know they existed). Prior to that the anti-cavitation plate was right at the bottom of the hull for the motor which was no good. Excessive exhaust gas could not be handled by the blower. Problem solved. Specs were 17" shaft prior, 22+" after. I also pulled the motor lift and overhauled it, it was original, never removed and badly corroded. Works great now but you just can't drop the motor down or yank her up without guiding it thru the lower hole. The trailing edge of the a/c plate will hit the aft section of the hole. Verticle lift might solve this. An item of note for you is the shims between the lift and the hull before you pull it. A verticle lift will require longer shims, a SWAG on my part, but I'd be willing to bet that you will need longer shims. Even more important is inspecting the fiberglass, inside and out, where your lift is mounted now. Gee, you'll have to move those stairs and electrial panel too. On SP I didn't detect any flaws of note. I was amased to find that there really isn't much beef in that mounting area and before you mount a 20hp you should consider reinforcing it. I think it was only rated for up to a 15. Also when I got SP her gas tank was mounted under the cockpit access hole to fill it. You had to pull the engine to pull it out. My solution was to mount it over the top of the engine (in the down position). This was with a newer plastic 6 gallon tank laying flat. I measured clearance for the tank from the hatch to what I needed for the bottom of the tank. Added 3/4" for plywood and 1/8" for 1 1/2" alum angle to support it. Four eyebolts for securing with bungies. Plywood is not screwed down but has the mounting bolts for the aluminum angle to hold it in place. I can pop the tank out anytime, even under power to switch to another. I can see the gauge too anytime. Need to lift the motor, bungies, tank and plywood come right out and up comes the engine. Also there is still pleanty of clearance to reach in front of the engine to make any adjustments. There is really no need to lift the engine while sailing, just put it neutral. Your rudder will creat more drag than that. Well maybe for racing. Can't find the pics right now but I hope I gave you some ideas to work with while your in so deep into your boat. Dano