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This is a subject that I know about - due to the weedy area I have to sail through to reach open water from our marina.
The weeds strain the downhaul system to it's limit - hold down pins snap and 1/4 nylon double-braid snaps. Motoring a mile and a half with the rudder up is not an option (just try motoring without any rudder...).
Anyway, I often end up clear of the weeds but with the rudder back an inch or two.
With the proper mast rake, sail trim and sail condition the small amount of weather helm that is usually manageable becomes impossible to hold off when the rudder is 1 to 2 inches deflected back.
Fix the rudder firmly down and forces return to what they are supposed to be. I ended up using 3/8 polyester cored and a Ronstan racing clam cleat (no other clam would hold without some slippage).
Of course if you are over canvassed or in poor sail trim/sail condition then you will experience rounding up in a heavy wind - it's either that or you go completely over!
Thats the Mac Classic tradeoff - that steller low wind performance that lets you blow the doors off others means you HAVE TO reef earlier. You'll still do hull speed but the boat will be controllable.
Remember too that the object is to trim the boat so the tiller is centered. Like a sailplane (my past hobby) any control surface deflection causes drag. A rudder that is counteracting another force will cause huge amounts of drag. Bottom line is that you don't want your rudder applying more than a little force - if it is then the boat is out of trim.
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