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The sprit is held by 5 bolts. Three in a cluster near the aft end of the sprit, two more spaced more foreward on centerline. I thought all 5 were the same stainless, obviously 3 were not quite up to par.
I did "fit" or "contour" the underside of the board to match the crown of the foredeck. Did this by placing waxed paper over the deck, then putting down a significant glob of thickened epoxy, then pressing down the board. After curing, the bottom of the board is a near-exact match to the deck crown. Volted together after that. (I wanted it to be possible to remove it in the future, so I did not epoxy the sprit to the deck, just through-bolted.
The light is just a raised stem in the same position as the original / factory bow light. Just wanted to move it higher to clear all the "stuff" up there. Made it by cutting near-circular ovals of 2x4, epoxy them together, then shape with rasp to get the form I wanted. Time-consuming, but not really difficult.
The covered hawsepipe goes to the anchor rode locker, of course. Stock item from West Marine.
The anchor holder is also a stock item, just bolted into place.
I really wanted a "door" on the top of the locker, but I just couldn't get it all to fit.
The furler line leads through the aftmost fairlead. It was originally in the foreward (now empty) one, but that proved to be the wrong angle. That original one can only be removed by taking off the whole sprit, so I just left it.
The SS bar across the aft end of the sprit is to prevent chafe on the anchor line.
Not sure if the SS deck cleat (10") really shows up, but I put that in for both strength and looks. It straddles a lateral structural member that crosses the foredeck for strength. That lateral strut is factory original is is VERY strong. Also added some serious backing plates, so I am not at all worried about that foreward cleat EVER letting go.
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