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I think the shade-tree refinisher believes that all primers are alike, they are not. In fact, selecting the wrong primer, a primer NOT compatible with your chosen topcoat, can create problems. First, one should decide what topcoat system is going to be used, then choose a compatible sealer and primer. The primer is used only on areas where the integrity of the existing finish has been compromised—in this case, where you’ve feathered through the gelcoat. A light gray primer would be my choice of color. (Tech tip . . . guide-coat the primed areas with a contrasting spatter of any spray-can paint you’ve got lying around the house, then sand off the guide-coat. This will help prevent sanding through the primed areas.
Instead of a total priming of the hull, which would then require sanding again, use the sealer mentioned above.
A note of caution: If the primer has been on the surface for more than a few days, it may have absorbed moisture. Any vehicle that has been outdoors, in the rain, or in areas with high humidity are suspect. This frequently leads to the development of small (1/16” ish) blisters in the topcoat when the trapped moisture expands when the surface heats up.
If you are using spray-can primer of any kind, should you decide to remove it to reprime, try washing it off with lacquer thinner. Most of these products wash off easily
Jerry
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