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I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier. I've been out of town and then the board was down for awhile.
There are simpler ways of proceeding.
The only core material necessary to remove and replace is the soggy black stuff. The wet but still firm, bright tan can be dried out.
The fastest way that I know of to dry out a laminated core area is to use a vacuum pump. Drill some 1/4" holes along the top near the gunnell. Then insert a series of catheters (1/4" copper tubing, 4" long) in holes along the bottom, run vinyl tubing from them to a manifold (2" PVC tubing with 1/4" hose barbs set into it), and connect the manifold with tubing to a Gast oilless rotary vacuum pump. Run 24/7 for a week or two and it's dry.
The air goes in the upper holes, gathers the moisture out of the core, and then is pulled out by the pump. You could probably speed up the process by using only dried air.
We have a Gast rotary pump we can rent to you. Or you can buy one.
We also have three pieces of 2' X 4" Baltek edge grain BC available in the thickness for the transom. We'll sell it at the same price that Defender sells it. Baltek kindly gave it to us and sales go to support our class.
Jeff Roy described a method for replacing BC in parts of his deck from the inside in an earkier post maybe 3-4 years ago. That's a relatively simple procedure and if you work from the inside, the hull covering handles the cosmetics. When he did his work, I don't think Roto-Zip spiral saws were popular. I suspect they'd be handy for that kind of project.
I recommend replacing any BC with equivalent BC. BC is FAR stronger than almost any other core material except exotic, very expensive material.
Deck cores, with all their penetrations for hardware which may not be adequately sealed, and which will get an abundance of fresh water from rain (salt water does not rot wood), are very subject to rotting in places.
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